Hey y’all, welcome back. How fast a month goes by. Well, last month’s “Myth vs. Truth” resulted in many responses in which some of you shared your tips and tricks with me, so I have included some of them which pertain to the garden. As well, I’d like to cover for October our fall crops for Halloween & Thanksgiving. Those of us growing pumpkins and gourds, etc for harvest should give one last big dose of phosphorous to stuff those root systems full of food, then top it off in a couple of weeks with some nitrogen or “Miracle Gro” for that last steroidal boost. If you’re growing for harvest in November, add a little molasses and water to the thirsty roots for sweeter pumpkins and squash, about a week or so before harvesting.

Our summer gardens are coming to an end. Now is a good time for “Miracle Gro” once, then let off the watering and see what happens. Thin out brown leaves and trim back any tired or spent plants or plant parts. This relieves overburden and discourages disease and insects from feasting on “easy prey”. I have in the nursery now (Antelope Home Depot) mums, stock fall bulbs, Ceonothus Concha (wild lilac), and coming soon, Cyclamen and Primrose. To the new gardener, these are some of our winter friends we plant at this time of year. The Loropetalum “Chinese Fringe Flower” is another beautiful winter charmer that offers wonderful color change as the leaves change between purple and green accented with a hot pink fringe bloom. The wild lilac I have tried 3 years to get and finally got it. It establishes well in fall as a native drought tolerant that coats itself with dazzling electric blue flower clusters, gorgeous bush, highly sought after by designers and not easy to obtain in a box store, but I did it. Come see me. I’ll introduce you.
I do need to include three reader submissions which I believe may help many more.

The first one goes to:
Coleen – Hi Coleen, for your hydrangea situation, white stays white. You can’t really alter them. God can sometimes, as they get older, give them a hint of red or a similar hue, otherwise white is white. Blue – Aluminum in the soil will do this. Sulfur is safer than aluminum and that is what we sell. Same result when both are present in the soil. Removing the alum/sulfur by neutralizing with dolomitic lime results in the pink color. Maintaining soil ph, therefore flower color, is easier in a pot than in the ground. This also does not happen overnight. Doing nothing and as far as pH adjustment and merely feeding the plant will sometimes lead to a green flower color. I hope this answers all your questions.

Janice – Your sad tomato luck (mine too) is most likely fusarium wilt (yes); unfortunately, this is a soil born pathogen fungus that lasts 4-6 years. Mid-to bottom of the plant yellowing with black spots & curling is indicative, absolutely. Another is verticillium wilt, yellows then browns and curls. Curly leaf wilt (without discoloration) is usually caused by stress and goes away after a few days. Stress can be from watering, transplanting , weather, etc. Figure out which it is and relieve the stress. P.S., for the wilts, soil treatment and abatement is definitive, and yes, clean all garden tools with bleach. Come see me in person if you need or wish to. I look forward to your visit. I can help. Thank you.

Ben, sorry this took so long. You were my computer’s glitch, but not my heart’s. Transplant shock and improper soil amending at the time of planting is the most common result of total loss at one time. There is an acclimation process all plants MUST endure for success in establishing themselves. Please, before your next attempt, hook up with me. Again, so sorry for the delay. Thank you.

Yeah, now for the even “Funner” Stuff…
Wacky tips and secrets:

Powdery mildew
Most any straight milk product mixed 25 – 50% with water applied with a spray bottle once per week until gone. Works best on vegetables, vines, and bulb plants.

Lawn Fungus
Spread evenly across affected area (not to coat to fry) but to lightly coat soil in affected area. Fairy rings, brown and dollar spot. Long story short: the corn meal does not kill the fungus, it feeds a good fungus that kills the bad fungus. Wow, pretty cool.

Coffee grounds not for acidity?
That’s right, spread mix used coffee grounds into soil because worms love coffee and it attracts them and keeps them around longer. For non acid-loving plants give grounds an extra run through the machine and mix in. Also, a great free source of nitrogen and other minerals.

Club Soda
One a week invigorates indoor and outdoor houseplants. You’ll see deeper green and extra growth.

Those darn cats
Here’s a new one. Chopped up orange peels and used coffee grounds not only “stinks” to a cat, it acts as a great fertilizer.

Store bulbs during winter
Use old pantyhose to put bulbs in and tie in a knot. Label each hose with name and store in a cool, dry place. They should be safe ‘til spring. *Pantyhose also work great in the bottom of a houseplant pot to let air and H2O through and hold the soil in.

Deer or other wild animals
Old combed out dog or human hair stuffed in old pantyhose and hung or placed in the area will deter them from the scent. Replace after scent has faded. That’s a cool idea (scattering old dog hair in their trails works great too!)

Cheap flowering (non- acid-loving) plant food
One tablespoon baking soda in two quarts of water, occasionally showered on the plants, will result in larger longer lasting blooms. Sounds cheap enough to try once!

As always, feedback is welcome and enjoyed. By the way, Brother Hillenbrand, this one’s for you.

Love Always,
Your Plant Lady